In Haumea, LA, Cajun tradition is powerful and French is meaningless


Enchancment: An earlier model of this story incorrectly referred to as the proprietor of the Grand Bayou Noir B&B gymnasium. His title is Tim. It additionally incorrectly referred to the Cajun area of Louisiana as Acadia; The right phrase is acadiana. The textual content has been corrected under.

“Are you positive we’re in the proper place?” I requested my husband whereas crossing the closed storefronts and abandoned sidewalks of Haumea, LA. We have been on the tail finish of a Gulf Coast street journey and had simply arrived at Terrebonne Parish Seat, the place we might come for some Cajun tradition. , In Hauma (pronounced hom-e), folks nonetheless converse in French incomprehensible to most French folks. Cajun dance halls are full. Oysters are damaged down with native water and put immediately in your plate. Or so I might have heard.

However through the drizzle, I solely noticed automotive elements shops and empty tons. Past the distant sugarcane fields, naked shipyard scaffolding rose skyward like a postapocalyptic jungle gymnasium. Admittedly, there have been pretty parks and fantastic seafood eating places, however the one native shade I observed was a mural painted on the wall of the shoebox-shaped Regional Navy Museum. The gun-wielding soldier seems to have been designed by an eighth grade pupil.

In the event you go: Hauma, la.

Then we turned proper onto Bayou Black Drive, and instantly, in entrance of us have been grand mansions, sweeping lawns and moss-bearded oaks. It is an impediment that have to be clear to outsiders, and the reason being not overshadowed by vacationers to locations like Houma: centuries-old tradition and the persistence of contemporary occasions typically intersect, and if you drive down the freeway in In that case, you are prone to see the latter first.

We drove as much as the Grand Bayou Noir B&B, and a gray-haired man in a flannel shirt and glasses got here out to satisfy us. He launched himself as native choose Tim, who occurs to run a side-by-side B&B, and instructed us we had been upgraded to a collection, as we have been his solely friends.

On the second ground, accessible from an outside balcony, our room was as luxurious as a mansion: luxurious with a four-poster mattress and cabinets crammed with native historical past. Tim took us again downstairs and opened an outside cooler for us to examine. “It is at dwelling,” he mentioned of soda, wine, and beer. “But when every thing goes away tomorrow, I am going to know who’s accountable.”

Louisiana is split into three sections: North, South, and New Orleans. Most outsiders go straight to the final. Nevertheless it’s price heading south, to the free-minded Cajun nation often called Acadiana. And Haumea is a prototypical vacation spot, positioned within the Atchafalaya Basin, with a refreshing mixture of working-class neighborhood and sufficient magnificence and leisure to fulfill a traveller.

Tim instructed us we might get extra from our seafood at a restaurant referred to as 1921. (“Go for the steamed, neglect the fried!”) On our method out, we noticed extra indicators of life, such because the restored Southdown Plantation Home. , which provided night candlelight excursions, and Boxer & Barrel indie-rock bar and artwork gallery. If we had Harleys, we may go to Massive Mike’s BBQ Smokehouse for bike evening.

We stored going to 1921 Seafood, which was packed filled with households. We entered the Oyster Bar in entrance of a hulking man named Shrek. Discuss contemporary: Shrek was dumping baggage of oysters, nonetheless coated in silt, and cracking them open with a flaky knife. They have been two-dimensional bulldogs, as thick as my palms.

Hauma’s residents are talkative, and the person subsequent to me, a riverboat builder named Danny, confirmed us shred oysters with out stuffing our mouths with dust. Consuming them felt chilly and salty-sweet, as if the ocean was consuming.

Danny was working his method via two kilos of blood-red crawfish and handed me some. They resembled big bugs, the form of factor you’d need to chase after with a brush. However right here, you needed to squeeze the tail along with your fingers after which suck the within half from the pinnacle. As I did so, Shrek laughed at my inattention.

After dinner, it was time to bop. Hauma Bayou is dwelling to music, from Cajun to its cousins, swamp pop (Cajun-infused rock) and zydeco (Cajun-infused R&B). There are numerous venues that function dwell music and dance. Situated throughout the road from our B&B, A-Bear’s Cafe and Bayou Delight Restaurant present weekend leisure. There are weekend bands on the Bayou Terrebonne Waterlife Museum and the Terrebonne Folklife Tradition Middle downtown. In March, there’s additionally the Louisiana Swamp Stomp Music Competition.

Tim directed us to the Jolly Inn for a dose of Cajun tradition. It was straight throughout the road from 1921, and we knew we have been in the proper place by the smiling crocodile painted on the dilapidated constructing. The dance corridor resembled a camp cafeteria: lengthy tables and wood rafters surrounded the dreamers. {Couples} of their 70s, in addition to youngsters who had not but reached double digits, danced to the fiddle, accordion, bass and triangle types of the Cajun home band, Sofa-Sofa.

This multi-generational environment is a throwback to prewar Cajun dances referred to as “fas do-doo” (pronounced fay dough-dough), a French etymology of “to sleep”. Ladies, not trusting their husbands to be alone, would take their younger youngsters to the dance-hall cry room and name them “fais do-do”.

At time for supper, our arrival created an instantaneous reception committee. A man with a ZZ Prime Beard launched himself as Alli Gator and obtained us signal “Honorary Cajun” certificates. Then Mr. Gator marched onto the stage, couch-couch interrupted, and introduced that some Northerners have been on the town. This prompted an outdated man carrying swamp camouflage and thick, bright-red suspenders to say whats up. His title was Alan, and he claimed to have lately shot a 10-foot gator in his yard. Then he requested me to bop.

I realized a whole lot of strikes together with the Cajun jig and “The Sweetheart” and “Window”. Every concerned delivering place and transferring clockwise across the dance ground. The music was louder and louder, and shortly my head was spinning. The final music got here at round 10 pm, however at the same time as folks buttoned their coats, they continued to bop. Allen’s slender grandson sprung so madly that he appeared able to shoot from the ceiling.

Again on the B&B, we mentioned the following day’s actions. The Historical past Channel’s “Swamp Folks” is filmed in Haumea, and our vessel choices for marsh excursions embrace pontoon boats, airboats, and even airplanes. Mandalay Nationwide Wildlife Refuge is simply 5 miles south of town, with loads of eco-friendly choices for watching herons, tortoises, and gators.

Within the morning we ate a home made breakfast at Tim’s eating room desk. As we dug into apple pancakes drenched in cane syrup and shrimp omelet and bacon, the choose instructed us she moonlighted as a marriage caterer and mentioned, “It’s a must to be out at 11 a.m. as a result of I will get gumbo for a reception. I’m making this after midday.” Properly that is okay.

Sadly, it was raining now. “We may go to the airplane swamp,” I advised, however my husband didn’t need to take a small aircraft this season—particularly since a possible crash meant swimming in gator-infested water.

As a substitute, we looked for Bayou in our automobile. We have been headed down Bayou Black Drive, with a slow-moving tributary sliding to the proper. To the left, giant mansions gave option to smaller homes after which trailers. Finally, we entered countless fields of cane. I began Cajun Station. Then I closed my eyes and rehearsed a number of the dance strikes from final evening in my head.

Miller is a contract author in Brooklyn. His first novel, “The 12 months of the Gadfly,” is now out there in paperback.



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